I was in Korea for a year while I was in the Army, back in 1991. I returned for a quick weekend trip while in Japan in 1996 and did the tourist thing...quite a different experience.

Anyway, I'd highly recommend trying one of the open-air markets. There's 2 HUGE ones, one at the East Gate, another at the South Gate (Nam-dae-mun and Dong-dae-mun respectively). You'll see all kinds of stuff...chicken, fish, and other animals, as well as vegetables, and even possible souveniers. All the times I went, I didn't see another white person (other than who I was with).

There's an old-style village (Min-suk-chun) about an hour train ride away...you can buy tickets directly from Seoul station. If you want a feel for what the 'old' live was like, that's a good experience. The train there and back goes through some interesting scenery.

If you want any tailor-made clothing (suits, coats, dresses, etc), Korea is THE place. For shops where you know they'll speak English, go near Young-san (the main military base), and nearly any in that area will work. I didn't have time to pick up on my weekend trip, and was a bit wary about paying and not getting it. The tailor shipped me the suit to the US--and even sent a Christmas card that year.

If you want a diversion from Seoul, Pusan is on the South coast and a beautiful city--people are extremely friendly and good beaches. Again, buy tickets at the station, it is about 5 hours each way, in first class. Alternatively, the isle of Che-chu-do has some good climbing and also great beaches, about an hour flight from Kimpo.

For getting around, you can't beat the subway for price or convenience. There is so much traffic that you don't even want to think of a cab. There's a station right at Kimpo Airport and is about $.60 to $.75 each way all the way into town (when I was there in 1996), about an hour ride, I think 1 change.

I stayed at a really small place that was right in the thick of the dept stores, US embassy, and some of the temples...can't remember the name, but they were very friendly.

Oh, definitely get a phrasebook and try to use a little...it goes a LONG way. Most Koreans know English, but may not use it.

The BEST thing I did in Korea was the trip to the DMZ/Truce Village. They do allow civilians from time to time...if you are interested contact the US Embassy for info.

Have a good trip!



Tim