Our line at Blue Mosque was not too bad, considering Aya Sophia and Topkapi were closed same day. We ended up paying a guide a reasonable amount to skip line and get full info tour. I didn't have guide last time and we learned so much. It wasn't an absolute necessity tho. A combo museum card is not a bad idea if you intend to see lots of places: MÜZE - About Museum Pass and it gives you fast track entry. BTW--Aya Sophia is 30tl ($15 per)
Best to check what's under renovation thru tripadvisor. Some very informative folks there.
I hate bargaining but it works--30 to 50% of the asking price is fair. One shop was fixed prices and that was nice. Top quality spices, too. I used some sumac on my homemade hummus today as a treat for our local wine tasting. Even made my own pita bread. Tasty dreams of Istanbul, except I'm not dreaming. It's 2am and I went to sleep around 8. I HATE JET LAG!! Gotta love TIVO.
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