Memorial Day Weekend 2004

After living in Illinois since late `97 it was finally time for my first trip to our state capital, Springfield. We made plans to visit several times over the last few years but we never followed through. Below is a short trip report on the city and our journey.

Springfield, population 112,000. Located in central Illinois, “downstate” to Chicagoans, about 4 hours drive south of Chicago and just under 2 hours north of St. Louis. The city probably receives more interest than many other state capitals because of its most famous resident, Abraham Lincoln, our nation’s 16th president. In the days of Lincoln it was a small town of about 16,000. It was first settled in 1820. Lincoln moved here in 1837.

Springfield has a small airport served by 3 airlines with about 14 daily flights. American Connection to STL, United Express to ORD and Chicago Express to MDW. If you plan to visit it is possible to nonrev into SPI, unless the Legislature is in session, but it’s just as easy to fly into STL or CHI and drive. Amtrak also provides service from Chicago and St. Louis.

Upon arrival we checked in to the Springfield Hilton located downtown. This 30 story round building is the tallest in the city; its nickname is the ‘Pisa on Prairie’, referencing a more famous and leaning tower in Italy. While checking in I mentioned that this was my first trip to the capital city. The young lady became very excited for me, gave us a map of central Springfield highlighting all the historical sites, a guidebook, and a room on the 25th floor with a view. Looking out our large picture window to the right was the state capital building and to the left was Mr. Lincoln’s Neighborhood National Park. What a great view! And what friendly staff! Noteworthy things about the hotel include Capisce? Ristorante Italiano on the 30th floor, great food and a good wine list, chosen Springfield’s best restaurant in 2003. Next door to Capisce? is Central Station jazz and martini bar, with its good drinks and great views.

Our first venture was the Illinois Executive Mansion, the home of governors since 1855. Had we not stopped to eat breakfast that morning we would have arrived early enough to meet the governor as he left for the capital. The first tour of the morning got to speak with him briefly. It’s a lovely old home with beautiful grounds. Free, guided tours are given 3 days a week. Very interesting!

Springfield is actually Illinois’ 3rd capital city. Our next stop was the Old State Capital, actually the state’s 5th capital building, serving from 1839 to 1876. The tour consists of all the former rooms including both Houses, the State Library, Secretary of State, Treasure’s and Governor’s offices, etc. Lincoln knew this building well, as a lawyer he argued numerous cases before the Supreme Court, he also served for a time in the House of Representatives; his desk is marked by a top hat. May 3rd and 4th, 1865 the body of President Lincoln lay in state for the last time in the House chambers. On temporary display is the table that Lincoln’s casket sat upon during his train trip back to Springfield following his assassination as well as some of the car’s original furnishings. At 10 O’clock on the morning of May 4th his casket was closed for the last time, and as the choir sang on the Statehouse steps, the casket was placed on a hearse for the trip to Oak Ridge Cemetery.

The present capital building is Illinois’ 6th. The design is in the shape of a Latin Cross. The outer walls are limestone cut from quarries a short distance from our home here in the south ‘burbs. It’s a beautiful building with a simply gorgeous interior dome reaching up to a height of 361 feet; taller than the U.S. capital building in Washington, DC. Free tours are given daily starting on the main floor of the rotunda. The ceilings of both the House and Senate chambers are truly stunning.

A little known piece of state history is that in 1871 the Legislature voted to move the state capital to Chicago. Plans were made to convene the fall session in the new capital city. Those plans were abandoned in October of that year after the Great Chicago Fire leveled most of the city on the 8th and 9th of that month.

In 1844 Mary and Abraham paid $1,500 for a small one-story cottage at the corner of 8th and Jackson where they would live for the next 17 years. Here, 3 of their 4 children were born and one died. As their family grew they added a 2nd floor to the home in 1855-56. While living in the house Lincoln enjoyed great success as a lawyer and was considered one of the state’s best courtroom attorneys. The National Parks Service is now responsible for the 4 block area around the Lincoln home. Constant restoration work is carried out in the park to return it to its 1860’s look when he was elected president. Tours are free but tickets are required and can be obtained at the visitor’s center. The center has a gift shop and a short film presentation. There are only 3 homes that can be toured. A parks Ranger takes you through both floors of the Lincoln home. Photos are allows inside and the tour takes no time at all.

“…to this place and the kindness of these people, I owe everything…” Lincoln spoke these words at what is now called the Lincoln Depot at the corner of 10th and Monroe. From this train station Lincoln departed for Washington, DC for his inauguration. There’s not much to the building except a short, but informative, film presentation about that event located on the 2nd floor. The video makes it worth the stop.

At the corner of 7th and Capital sits First Presbyterian Church. Just inside the front door is the Lincoln Family Pew. The Lincoln’s were members of this church. Today churches usually “pass the plate”, i.e. take up a collection, at services. In those days pews in most churches were available to members for annual contributions or tithes. This is how most churches supported themselves in those days. A plaque would then be placed on the pew reserving it for the contributing family. The Lincoln’s did just that – the original plaque is still attached. Photos are permitted.

Oak Ridge Cemetery is the final resting place of the 16th president, as well as his wife and 3 of their 4 children. Eldest son Robert, who became a well respected statesman in his own right, was buried at Arlington National Cemetery. Oak Ridge is the 2nd most visited cemetery in the U.S. behind Arlington. On Tuesday evenings during the summer the 114th Illinois Volunteer Reactivated Infantry holds a solemn retreat ceremony at the Lincoln Tomb. The flag that flew over the tomb the previous week is then given at random to someone in attendance.

Something to look forward to: In downtown Springfield in the summer of 2004 the new Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library will open, with the Presidential Museum opening in early 2005.

One of Springfield’s more tragic events occurred in 1908. A race riot broke out in the city at the corner of 7th and Jefferson. Several people were killed and numerous injured. The governor called out the state militia to quell the violence as the city’s black citizens raced for the State Armory for protection. The story is told though a self-guided, eight-marker tour. This event is especially noteworthy because it led to the founding of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) in 1909.

On a far lighter note, did you know that the Simpson’s - which is meant to be a reflection and sometimes criticism of all Americans - is at least partially based on Springfield, Illinois? The TV show goes to great lengths not to mention a specific state but there are numerous similarities including the power plant smoke stacks, Lake Springfield, the Bluffs, the Bridge to Nowhere and the capitol building. Even more interesting is that Simpson’s creator Matt Groening and several of his writers are from this area.

And finally, did you know that the corn dog, first named the “crusty cur” and then the “cozy dog” was invented here by Ed Waldmire Jr? His Cozy Dog Drive-In still operates on South 6th Street.

We had such a great time in Springfield we have already decided to return in 2005 when the Presidential Library and Museum is fully operational. If you’re interested in American history then Springfield should be on your list of places to visit. The city offers interesting and very informative insights, not only about our 16th president but also mid-19th century life and our nation’s Civil War.

Links:

Springfield, IL
www.visit-springfieldillinois.com

Lincoln Home
www.nps.gov/liho

Lincoln Presidential Library
www.alincoln-library.com

A few of our photos:
<a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/crlyde" target="_blank">http://photos.yahoo.com/crlyde</A>
Then click “Springfield”