Thread: Paniolo Country

"There's an island in Hawai'i that the world has left behind. A place where there are no buildings taller than a coconut tree. No traffic and no traffic lights. Where nature calls you to push yourself to the limit and pull yourself together. An island, a place, a state of mind...called Moloka'i." - The Moloka'i Visitors Association

On approach to Ho'olehua Airport (MKK) I peered out the window of the Dash 8 almost in amazement. The western (leeward) side of Moloka'i looks a lot like the southwestern Oklahoma of my childhood. Small farms, old farmhouses, pastureland, fields and red dirt everywhere. I immediately felt I was coming home.

As you leave the airport you're greeted by a large sign proclaiming, "Slow down, this is Moloka'i !" Indeed, this is NOT Waikiki, this is NOT Ka'anapali! This is as close to the true Hawai'i as you will find today. Life here is slower, simpler, friendlier. You won't find luxury hotels or high-priced condos. No exclusive shopping, no expensive 5-star restaurants. And, you won't find a phony luau or nightclub anywhere. You're in the country now!

The main town on the island is Kaunakaka'i. It has a gas station, grocery, 2 ATM's and a few boutique shops. On the edge of town, near the harbor, next to the pizza parlor, you'll find Paddler's Inn, a great bar that stays open late and has a good menu. Don't miss the award winning poki! Nearby, why not visit the coffee plantation and the macadamia nut farm?

There are a few hotel's scattered across the western half of the island, including a number of simple, private condos. Most are available at much more reasonable rates than on any other island. We chose Kaluakoi Resort, owned by the same New Zealand corporation that owns Moloka'i Ranch, run by Castle Hotels and Resorts. When the property was built 30 years ago it was a model for Hawai'i and the Pacific. But in those 3 decades, politics, an economic downturn and corporate egotism have allowed this once model showpiece to deteriorate badly. For the price (with interline discount), its still a good place to stay. Just don't expect too many amenities - except a gorgeous beach that's mostly empty, a pitch-black, nighttime sky loaded with more stars than you thought possible and a picturesque sunset that rivals any I've seen.

Nearby is Maunaloa Town and the nicest property on the island, The Lodge at Moloka'i Ranch, an actual cattle ranch with a hotel, good bar, cafe' and a nice restaurant. You'll find it to be more expensive that the rest of the island but it is a nice place. No matter where you stay on the island you'll probably find yourself here for dinner or drinks at least once. The most charming piece of Maunaloa Town is the stop sign, it says "WHOA".

Arguably the best food on the island is the Kualapu'u Cookhouse in the small town of Kualapu'u. It's nothing more than an old house that was gutted. The back half of the house is the kitchen and storerooms and the front half is the indoor dining room. A carport was erected over the old driveway to cover picnic tables and on busy nights tables are set up on the front lawn. The place is always busy, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with breakfast and dinner as the highlights of their menu. Prices are extraordinarily reasonable, cash only and BYOB! The Cookhouse is run by two identical cousins, who look like twin brothers, these two chefs create some of the best food we've ever had the privilege of sampling! Much of it from local sources.

A drive to the windward (eastern) side of the island is a picturesque must! Highway 450, also called Kamehameha V Highway, runs along the edge of the southern shore of the island to the Halawa Valley. Large stretches along the road are worthy of a multitude of photographs! As you make your way eastward the road narrows, it's only 2 lanes to begin with but those lanes narrow and eventually state highway 450 shrinks to 1 lane! No, not one lane in each direction but 1 lane total for both directions! Fortunately, traffic is light but caution is necessary. Speed limits along particularly tricky stretches of 450 are 5 miles per hour!

Helicopter tours stretching from the Halawa Valley westward along the coast are quite popular. Here you'll find the tallest seacliffs in the world! Much of the area is so remote and treacherous it is suspected that human footprints haven't touched most of it.

There's one person and one place that brings most people to this small, remote island, Fr. Damien and the town of Kalaupapa. During the 19th century victims of Leprosy, today called Hansen's Disease, were forcibly relocated here. This forced imprisonment continued into the middle of the 20th century. Currently, there are only about 30 to 35 patients living in the colony. Today, free to come and go as they please these few souls have chosen to make their home in the place that once served as their prison.

Kalaupapa National Historic Park is rather difficult to get to. You can fly in on a private charter once a day or hike down the 2,000 foot cliffs or hire a mule to hike it for you. We chose the latter. You mount your trusty steed, er mule, at Moloka'i Mule Ride for the hike down a sheer 2,000 foot cliff to the settlement where you are met by a guide who shows you around. A little 'candy-coated' history, a little science, and a little politics later you have a good idea of what the people here actually endured. Photographic opportunities abound!

For most, including Joey and me, the visit to Fr. Damien's church, St. Philomena and the grave of Blessed Fr. Damien, is the prayerful highlight of this journey. Ever so close to sainthood, Fr. Damien is now at step 2 (Blessed or Beatified) of the three step process to sainthood. Damien exemplified what service to others is all about. So much so that he forfeited his life to Leprosy in order to serve and lend a little dignity to society's outcasts.

Another key figure at Kalaupapa was Blessed Mother Marianne. A quiet nun who worked tirelessly to comfort the suffering. While Damien's role was more public and restive, hers was private and secluded. Each of their rolls was equally important to the life of the community.

At the end of your Kalaupapa visit you again mount your mule for the ride back to the top - 2,000 feet straight up! The views are almost incomparable! While the ride can be a little 'hair-raising' at times, don't forget to take photos from this most excellent cliff-side vantage point!

The Island of Moloka'i is not for everyone but it quickly captured my heart. I can see myself returning again and again!

Click here to view some of our photos!

www.molokai-hawaii.com
www.muleride.com (you simply cannot come to Moloka'i and not do the mule ride!)
www.castleresorts.com (1-800-367-5004 for interline rates)
www.molokairanch.com
www.molokai-outdoors.com
www.islandair.com (by the way, no longer a subsidiary of Aloha Airlines)