I lived in Argentina for over a year..these are my suggestions of things to do:
ANY DAY OF THE WEEK
Other than the requisite tango show, cheap steaks and Boca Jrs. and/or River Plate soccer game (NOT to be missed!!), I would recommend you go window-shopping (like a real porteno/a..that's what Buenos Aires' citizens are called) along the Avenida Santa Fe. It's located in the beautiful neighborhoods of Palermo and Recoleta, and you can stop for medialunas (croissants) and cafe con leche (coffee with milk) along the way. While on Santa Fe, step into the bookstore "El Ateneo" which is beautiful and has a great collection of Latin American literature. Next door you'll find Volta, the best ice cream in town (don't leave BA without trying this!!).
I personally would skip the tourist trap that is El Caminito in the neighborhood of La Boca. That's where all the painted houses are that you see in the pictures. This tourist-only area is not very large and if you venture even a block away from it you are likely to be mugged.
If it's a nice day outside, walk along the swanky and newly-redone Puerto Madero and head towards the river to the Costanera Sur, a wildlife refuge that makes you forget you're in a metropolitan area of 15 million people. Grab a chorizo from one of the many vendors there.
WEDNESDAYS
If you're into modern art, check out MALBA, which hosts works by Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar and Diego Rivera (free admission on Wednesdays I think). While you're in the neighborhood, stop into the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Recoleta cemetary where Evita is buried (both free).
Wander the cobble-stone streets of the sub-neighborhoods of Palermo SoHo and Palermo Hollywood where you'll find artesan fairs in the plazas, groups of young Argentines drinking mate, and countless boutiques. Stay there for dinner and dine at any one of the area's fine ethnic restaurants or find an upscale parrilla (grill) for steak and wine. Afterwards, head to Opera Bay in Puerto Madero or Museum in San Telmo to join the after-office crowd for a drink.
THURSDAYS
The Plaza de Mayo in front of the Casa Rosada (the pink house, where the president works daily) is where the Madres march every Thursday afternoon. These women are the mothers of college students who disappeared during Argentina's "Dirty War," in which the military government "disappeared" 30,000 people in the 70s and 80s.
FRIDAYS/SATURDAYS
Argentines live for the weekends. If you plan on sampling the local nightlife, expect to stay up late. Don't hit any bars before midnight (nobody will be there yet) and clubs until 2-3 in the morning. If you can stay up that late, it's worth the following-day fatigue. Young Argentines dance til sunrise.
Plaza Cortazar (known as Plaza Serrano to all locals and cab drivers) in Palermo is a great place to start your night. There is a good variety of bars and lots of people.
If you're into tango, check the listings in San Telmo's Moliere for shows. Esperanto is a great smaller bar/dance club in Palermo Hollywood for the 20-something/30-something set that plays local Latin music favorites (reggaeton, a little bit of salsa), electronica, and Argentine music (cumbia, rock nacional). If you're from out of town, you'll find Argentines very friendly and curious, but ladies be warned: Argentine men can be a bit forward.
Slightly more upscale bars/clubs include Opera Bay and Asia de Cuba ($10 USD at the door) in Puerto Madero.
SUNDAYS
If you're into antiques, don't miss the feria in San Telmo. However, if you would like to get a taste of what it's like to be an Argentine from outside Buenos Aires, go to the Feria de Mataderos. Although set in a rough neighborhood and as far west from the city center as you can get, here you can do things like watch folkloric dances, taste artesanal jams and dulce de leche, watch gauchos compete on horseback, ogle the local leatherwork, and eat humitas and locro (delish!).
Also on Sundays: Most major soccer games.
FLIGHTS TO EL CALAFATE
Check Aerolineas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com.ar). Be aware that El Calafate is the most expensive tourist destination in the country.
Good luck!
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