It seems like a long time since I had the opportunity to post one of these reports, and, as is increasingly the case these days, this day trip to Cologne was very much a late decision - the choice of destination being based almost entirely on seat availability. The last thing you need when you want to get out of the country for a few hours is a morning spent watching flights go without you and an afternoon wondering whether your cheapo trip is going to end up feeding the coffers of the local Sheraton.
Cologne airport is the same distance from Bonn - however a trip to the former administrative capital of West Germany as well did not seem an appealing option with limited time available. The cheapest way to get into Bonn or Cologne is by bus - they leave the airport every 30 minutes and take 20-30 minutes for the journey to Cologne rail station - in the centre of town and adjacent to the cathedral, Cologne's main historic attraction.
Shops often close on Saturday afternoon, so we got the shopping out of the way first. Although for the guides emphasise the need for a car to see the whole city, the city centre is very compact and you definitely do not need one to cover it. The main pedestrianised shopping streets are a lazy 5-10 minute walk from the cathedral. Most of this area is fairly functional and filled with generally uninspiring post-war architecture - the city having suffered a similar fate in the war to parts of London.
However, between the shopping area and the Rhein is the old town and green area (Rheingarten) which includes a lot of restaurants, inns and open squares, where the indigenous population seemed to prefer sitting outside despite the wind and low temperatures requiring overcoats and thick sweaters. For a few euros you can take a half hour boat trip down the Rhein and back - there are cafes, bars and meals served on the boats, plus a commentary available in English. It is good value, picks out many points of interest, and is a leisurely and relaxed way to see the city from a different angle.
Having done my duty by lerning something more about Cologne from the boat commentary, it was back to the Rheingarten for something to eat. There was no way I was going to sit outside, and for some obscure reason they make the glass of the inns difficult to see through to check out what and who is inside. The place we chose served a brilliant steak berniaiase which still makes my mouth water even over two months later. The sauce was obscenely rich, the meat and vegetables well-cooked and appropriately swathed in it - this is certainly not a place for those on a diet or with any concern for their arteries!
But it couldn't last forever. Till then the day had consisted of a series of short walks, punctuated by long spells af sitting down eating, drinking or looking at things. All this was to change with the final visit of the day - needless to say to the cathedral itself. The cathedral is staggering and dominates the city. Started in 1248 it was developed up to 1880, and is the largest of Germany's cathedrals.
Climbing to the top of the building up a very tight, close spiral staircase was one of those ideas that seems great before you start - but this feeling wears off pretty quickly as you climb. I would like to say I rose to the challenge and that the fantastic view available made it worthwhile, but my enthusiasm was sufficeintly depleted by the time we got to the clock stage that I was hit with a sudden pang of "what happens if the drivers of the airport bus decide to go on strike this evening" - or some such similar excuse.
I made a mental note not to criticise again the artificiality of some of other towns which incorporate elevators into their places of interest and started the downward trek. There is a lot to see in the cathedral itself - so do not be put off if you lack the physical attributes of Michael Jordan or Spiderman.
Needless to say all of this urgency got us to the airport way earlier than we needed to be there, and they kindly allowed us to sit in the lounge before an easy flight home.
For information about Cologne see
<a href="http://www.stadt-koeln.de/en/koelntourismus/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.stadt-koeln.de/en/koelntourismus/index.html</A>
If you have insomnia, you may want to watch the domcam - see
<a href="http://www.wdr.de/domcam/" target="_blank">http://www.wdr.de/domcam/</A>
For bus and airport details see
<a href="http://www.airport-cgn.de/index_e.html" target="_blank">http://www.airport-cgn.de/index_e.html</A>
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